Qi Yan focuses on what she wants, and indeed, when she opens the fridge it reveals a small bowl of dark green paste. "Chive flower paste," she says, taking it out. "Where I come from, we do not grow crops, so our diet is mainly meat. But we have this seasonally, when the wild chives blossom in the spring. It is a very good accompaniment to food that is fried or fatty." She is speaking of where she actually comes from, despite having told many people that she's from the Jin province; if it doesn't mean anything here, then she doesn't have to worry about anyone noticing discrepancies in her background.